Things to do in Montenegro: ideas from people who live here

Wondering what to do in Montenegro besides the beach? On a single trip you can take a boat around the Bay of Kotor, climb Kotor's city walls, hike a mountain trail in Durmitor, raft down the Tara and have trout for dinner by a lake. The country is small, so the sea and the mountains are never far apart.

We've lived in Montenegro for many years, and this is what we tell our friends: what to do, where it's easiest to set off from and what to try at the table.

What's the best way to see the Bay of Kotor?

The best way to see the Bay of Kotor is from a boat: from the water you can see how the mountains drop almost straight into the sea, with little old towns tucked in between. Together with Kotor and Perast, the bay has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1979.

The classic route runs past Perast to Our Lady of the Rocks, the island sailors built up stone by stone over the centuries. If you'd like a swim, pick a trip out to the mouth of the bay and the Blue Cave on the Lustica peninsula, where the water glows bright blue.

By the way, dolphins are often spotted in the bay outside the season, so keep your phone handy.

What is there to do in Kotor Old Town?

Kotor Old Town is best explored on foot and without a map: its maze of narrow streets keeps opening onto little squares and old churches.

Here's what we'd make sure not to miss:

• The climb up the walls to St John's Fortress above the town. From the top you can see the whole bay laid out below you.
• The Maritime Museum, if you're curious how Kotor lived off the sea and its fleet.
• A walk along the water: the waterfront from Kotor to Dobrota is quiet and runs right along the bay.

Where can you go hiking in Montenegro?

The best place to go hiking in Montenegro is Durmitor National Park in the north of the country. The park was founded in 1952, it has been on the UNESCO list since 1980, and its mountains hold 18 glacial lakes. There are trails for an easy stroll and for a tough climb alike.

Bobotov Kuk

Bobotov Kuk, Durmitor's best-known peak, rises to 2,523 metres. For a long time it was thought to be the highest point in Montenegro, but new surveys showed that three peaks on the border with Albania are higher. The climb isn't easy, but from the top you see mountain ranges and valleys in every direction.

Žabljak as your base

The easiest place to stay is Žabljak: it's the nearest town to the park, and almost all of Durmitor's tourist life happens around it.

What is there to do at Black Lake?

At Black Lake the best thing to do is simply walk: a trail of about 3.5 km runs all the way round it, and the shore is only about 3 km from Žabljak. The lake lies at 1,416 metres and has two parts, the Big Lake and the Small Lake.

It's surrounded by a beautiful forest of old spruce trees and moss, with patches of wild strawberries and good spots for mushrooms. In summer the bravest swim in the cold, clear water, while others hire a rowing boat and take in the mountains from out on the lake.

If you fall for the north, take a look at Prokletije National Park too: that's where you'll find wild mountains and hiking routes.

What is there to do in Budva besides the beach?

Away from the beach, the best thing to do in Budva is wander round Budva Old Town. Budva is thought to be one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic, around 2,500 years old. Most of its walls and buildings date from Venetian rule, between 1420 and 1797.

The Citadel stands on the southern edge of the old town, and on the sea side its walls stretch for 160 metres. From Budva's fortress walls you look out over the rooftops and the sea. And in the evening, go and watch the sunset at Sveti Stefan.

Where can you go on a half-day trip from Budva?

The easiest half-day trips from Budva follow the coast, because the prettiest spots are all close by. Here's our personal list:

• Mogren Fortress and the Mogren 1 and Mogren 2 beaches, and further along Jaz, Ploče and Trsteno. There's more about them in our guide to the best beaches in Budva.
• Miločer Park and Sveti Stefan: Miločer Park is lovely for an unhurried walk.
• Sveti Sava Panorama, a viewpoint looking out over Sveti Stefan.
• Petrovac, with its citadel, a walking path along the sea and Perazića Do beach.
• Podmaine, Praskvica and Rustovo monasteries, where people go for peace and quiet.

Budva and the area around it are also a wonderful place for a sunset photoshoot. If you'd like to take beautiful photos home with you, have a look at our photoshoot in Budva and drop us a line.

You can end the day by the sea with dinner above the water: the Vista Vidikovac and Muse restaurants both have lovely views.

How do you plan a boat trip on Lake Skadar?

Start your Lake Skadar boat trip from Rijeka Crnojevića: the boat heads straight into the narrow channels, so there's something to see from the very first minute. Boats also leave from Virpazar, but from there you first have to cross the open part of the lake, which takes 30 minutes or more. Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans. About two thirds of it lies in Montenegro and the rest in Albania. In 1983 the Montenegrin part of the lake became a national park.

People come here above all for the nature: around 270 bird species live on the lake, including some of the last pelicans in Europe. In summer the channels are covered in water lilies, with mountains rising all around.

Which kind of trip to choose

• A boat tour in a group or with just your own party, if you simply want to sit back and look around.
• Hiring your own boat, if you'd like peace and quiet at your own pace.
• A kayak or SUP board for those who like to do the paddling themselves.

Along the way you can stop at the shore, swim in the cool water or have lunch outdoors. The lake has carp, bleak and eel, and you can fish here during the permitted times.

Is Ostrog Monastery worth visiting?

Ostrog Monastery is worth the trip even if you're not a pilgrim: the white church is built right into an almost sheer cliff, and that's a sight you won't forget. It was founded in the 17th century by St Basil of Ostrog. Today it's considered one of the most important Orthodox sites in Montenegro.

The monastery has two parts. The relics of St Basil are kept in the cave church of the Upper Monastery. The Lower Monastery, with its Church of the Holy Trinity from 1824, is where the monks live and pilgrims stay.

Where can you go rafting in Montenegro?

The best river for rafting in Montenegro is the Tara: its canyon, up to 1,333 metres deep, is considered the deepest in continental Europe. The canyon runs for 82 km in total, and 60 km of it lies within Durmitor National Park.

Most people choose the one-day trip of about 14 km, from Brštnovica to Šćepan Polje. There's also a long route of almost 60 km over several days, for anyone who finds one day on the water isn't enough.

How to choose a rafting trip

Lots of local companies run rafting trips on the Tara, and their routes vary in difficulty and length. Beginners will be happy on the calmer stretches, while anyone who has rafted before will love the wild rapids.

Before you book, check what's included in the price: transfer, gear, instructor and lunch. That way there are no surprise extras once you're there.

What Montenegrin food should you try?

In Montenegro, make sure you try grilled meat, dishes cooked under a sač and the local trout. Montenegrin cooking blends Balkan, Mediterranean and Eastern influences. Here's our list:

• Ćevapi: small grilled sausages of minced beef or pork, often served in a soft, puffy flatbread with kajmak, a mild cheese that's almost like butter.
• Pljeskavica: a big patty of minced meat. Gurmanska pljeskavica comes with pieces of pršut, and ljuta pljeskavica with hot paprika.
• Burek: a flaky pastry pie filled with minced meat and onion, with cheese or with spinach.
• Riblja čorba and kačamak: a thick fish soup with tomato, and a very filling porridge made of potato, cornmeal and cheese.
• Meso ispod sača: lamb or veal slow-cooked under a heavy metal lid covered in hot coals. Potatoes go in at the end and soak up the juices and the smoky flavour.
• Pastrmka na žaru: grilled river trout with potatoes, or Dalmatian-style with boiled potatoes and blitva, a leafy green a lot like spinach.
• Pršut: dry-cured, smoked ham, the Balkan cousin of jamón.

If you ask me, trout is the tastiest and the cheapest river fish.Mariia Sosnina

The most famous pršut in Montenegro comes from Njeguši, a mountain village on the slopes of Lovćen, where it's lightly smoked and dried in the cool mountain wind.

Which rakija to try

Rakija, a strong fruit brandy, comes in lots of different kinds. The most common are loza from grapes and šljivovica from plums, but there's also kruška from pears, jabuka from apples, kajsija from apricots, breskva from peaches and dunja from quince.

Don't be shy: ask the waiter for homemade rakija and try a few different kinds.

How do you fit the best things to do in Montenegro into one trip?

Fitting both the sea and the mountains into one trip to Montenegro is easy if you split your stay between two places: part of your holiday on the coast, part in the north. The table shows where it's easiest to set off from.

And if you're deciding what to see, have a look at our list of 20 must-see places in Montenegro. Nature lovers will find our guide to Montenegro's national parks useful, and we've also written a separate piece on Lovćen National Park.

If you're still deciding whether to go at all, we've taken an honest look at the pros and cons of travelling to Montenegro. Do come, you won't regret it!

How can you bring home candid photos from Montenegro?

The easiest way to bring home candid photos from Montenegro is a holiday photoshoot. We shoot with no staging, but with humour and meaning: you don't need to pose, just relax and be yourselves. A shoot usually lasts about an hour and a half in one location, in the soft light before sunset.

I'm Mariia Sosnina, a photographer in Montenegro, and I'd love to photograph you during your trip. Have a look at our photoshoot locations in Montenegro or our love story couple shoots, pick what feels closest to you and get in touch.

Frequently asked questions