At the end of 2022, we finally accomplished an important milestone, fulfilling my long-standing dream of taking a winter vacation in Asia. Unfortunately, the pandemic and its associated restrictions had prevented us from visiting Asia for the past three years. In the past, traveling there was an annual tradition rather than a dream. Among the places we missed the most was Bali.
Our friends initially decided to join us on our trip to Asia. However, since a vaccine was required for Bali and they didn’t have it, we decided to go to Sri Lanka instead. I must admit, thanks to them, we discovered and experienced another new country—and, of course, checked it off our list. Although our friends eventually chose not to travel anywhere, we couldn’t change our plans as we had already purchased our tickets by then.
To answer the question directly: “Would we go again?” The answer is “No.” While there were several negative aspects—despite not expecting anything extraordinary—there were also some positives, which I will begin with.
1. Cheap prices
Compared to Bali and Thailand, Sri Lanka appears to be a much more affordable destination in terms of housing, car rentals, and food. With some thorough research—especially if done in advance—you can find excellent accommodation options. For instance, we stayed in a fantastic place right on the ocean, complete with a pool, for just $50 per day.
Recommendation: Villa Kusum 📍maps.google.com
Our first meal at a local café cost only 9.5 EUR and included a variety of curry options—chicken, squid, and shrimp. The food was incredibly spicy. The locals traditionally use banana leaves as plates and eat with their hands, combining various curries with rice, mixing it thoroughly, and scooping it up with their fingers before eating. Naturally, we used spoons, which drew a few curious looks. Perhaps they were observing how we handled the intense spiciness of the food, which we actually loved despite how fiery it was!
Some prices for food in Sri Lanka restaurants:
- whole fish (catch of the day) — 8.3 euros
- half a liter of beer — 2 euros.
- seafood platter for two costs around 25-35 euros
- shrimp curry costs 5.7 euros
- prices for wine range from 3-5 euros per glass
- cocktails cost 6 euros.
- breakfast of plain omelet, rice with seafood, shrimp salad, and a bottle of water costs around 8 euros
- kilo of mango can be bought for 2 euros
Depending on the café and the beach, prices can vary. A Christmas dinner at a 5-star hotel costs $75 per person, including unlimited grilled seafood and two glasses of wine. However, a vegan breakfast cost us 24 EUR, plus two black coffees — quite pricey. That said, it was very delicious!.
Some recommendations of fancy caffes in Hikkaduwa:
SeaSaltSociety @seasaltsociety and they also have location on Weligama beach but in food court zone (not on the beach). Best dish: Tuna tataki. But everything is very tasty and cheap
Friends Indeed @friendsindeedsl — until 12 p.m. they have only breakfasts.
Salty Swamis Cafe @saltyswamis — more expansive than other cafes but very good coffee and nice food
Sunny Side Up Café @sunnysideup_hikkaduwa — only for vegans. Good for coffee and avocado toast
Restaurant in Cliff Resort Hikkaduwa @riffhikkaduwa— bit portions and everything is tasty
and some in Unawatuna and nearby
The Hideout Unawatuna (Mexican) — @thehideoutunawatuna
Society Unawatuna @societyunawatuna — fresh fish & interesting cocktails. But the main is how friendly and nice waiters they have
Kabala Sunset Cafe, 📍location — just nice place for a sunset cocktail
Wijaya Beach @wijayabeach — tasty wood-fired pizza, fresh oysters
I also want to recommend a place we stumbled upon while walking around Fort Galle.
Fort Galle
Fort Galle is a captivating fusion of old-world charm and contemporary allure. Situated on the southwestern coast of Sri Lanka, this UNESCO World Heritage Site stands as a testament to the island’s rich history and cultural diversity. Originally built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and later fortified by the Dutch, Fort Galle showcases the strategic importance of the region during the colonial era. Its imposing walls, bastions, and gates echo the battles fought and lives lost within its confines.
Beyond its historical significance, Fort Galle is a vibrant, colorful destination that enchants visitors from around the globe. Its cobblestone streets, charming cafes, and boutique shops offer a seamless blend of timeless elegance and modern sophistication. As you wander through its narrow alleys, you’ll be immersed in the sights, sounds, and aromas of Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage. From lively fish markets to tranquil Buddhist temples, Fort Galle is a true melting pot of cultures and traditions, leaving a lasting impression on all who visit.
The Bungalow Galle Fort — Restaurant & Bar
When we stumbled upon this courtyard, I couldn’t resist stepping in and lingering for an hour. A couple of hours later, I found myself returning and staying for even longer. The entire courtyard was adorned with vibrant pink sticks—I’m not sure what else to call them. At its center stood an enormous tree, towering majestically over the space. Its branches were draped in bright purple flowers, creating a breathtaking display.
The atmosphere was simply magical, like something out of a fairytale. This moment might just be my most vivid memory of Sri Lanka. Of course, the tree doesn’t bloom year-round, but even without the flowers, I wholeheartedly recommend this café, bar, and hotel. The interior is stunning, and the service is exceptional.
You can also watch my reels www.instagram.com/reel/Cm5pBZPIt3I/
📍 Location by link
2. Lots of animals
I’m not talking about creepy crawlies like centipedes or spiders, but rather small, cute animals. For instance, there are plenty of coconut squirrels around here. Everyone I know exclaims, “Oh, it’s a chipmunk!” But no, they’re actually squirrels.
And speaking of squirrels, let me jog your memory: remember the Chip 'n Dale: Rescue Rangers cartoon?
Ch-ch-ch-Chip 'n Dale’s Rescue Rangers!
Ch-ch-ch-Chip 'n Dale, when there’s danger!
No, no, it never fails,
Once they’re involved, somehow whatever’s wrong gets solved.
Well, here’s the shocking truth—they’re not chipmunks at all. They’re coconut squirrels! This revelation has completely shattered my worldview.
There are so many of them here, and they’re absolutely hilarious. They’re constantly busy, chasing one another around, and making loud, screeching noises—especially right before it rains. It’s both entertaining and fascinating to watch them!
We also spotted some fascinating bearded monkeys perched in the trees, leisurely chewing on leaves. I was initially worried they might climb onto our balcony, but they showed no interest in our belongings.
We encountered many mongooses during our journey to the center of the island. Interestingly, mongooses possess natural immunity to snake venom, and it’s thanks to them that modern antivenom for snakes was developed, derived specifically from their enzymes.
In the wild here, you might also come across elephants casually crossing the road or water buffaloes wandering nearby. In the evenings, flying foxes take to the skies in large groups, hunting for juicy fruits—rest assured, not infants. Monitor lizards can be seen roaming the beaches, while peacocks, as common here as crows are in Russia, perch on roadside posts and stroll through the fields.
On the beaches, countless tiny crabs dig burrows and scuttle about in an amusing manner. In the waters nearby, massive sea turtles swim gracefully and sometimes come ashore. Friendly locals often use seaweed to lure them closer, offering tourists a chance to interact with these creatures for a small fee.
Excursions provide opportunities to observe whales in the open sea or explore one of the island’s three national parks, where you can see animals, including predators, thriving in their natural habitats.
3. Beautiful nature of Sri Lanka
The island captivates with its stunning beauty: long sandy beaches lined with tall palm trees and crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming. The diversity of its beaches is remarkable, offering everything from big waves for adventure seekers to calm, reef-protected waters, providing a safe and enjoyable swimming environment even for young children.
At the heart of the island, lush evergreen fields and snow-capped mountains stretch out, their peaks visible through soft, fluffy clouds. Picturesque valleys and cascading waterfalls add to the island’s allure, captivating with their natural beauty. The island is a vibrant haven of greenery, a sight that delights the eye—provided it remains unspoiled by litter.
4. Safe
At least, that’s how we felt—the locals were incredibly friendly and welcoming.
5. Speak English
In general, there were no communication issues on the island since English is widely spoken.
6. Surfing
Surfing in Sri Lanka is rapidly gaining popularity, thanks to the island’s stunning beaches and reliable waves. From beginner-friendly beach breaks to more challenging reef breaks, the coastline offers a diverse range of surf spots to suit all skill levels. Renowned destinations like Weligama, Arugam Bay, and Hikkaduwa are among the most popular for surfers visiting Sri Lanka. With warm waters and a tropical climate, surfing here is a year-round activity.
The island is also home to numerous surf schools and experienced instructors, making it an ideal destination for beginners looking to learn the basics or seasoned surfers aiming to refine their skills. Whether you’re an experienced wave rider or new to the sport, surfing in Sri Lanka promises an unforgettable experience.
Cons of travelling to Sri Lanka
All the pros seem cool until you face all the cons.
Let me provide some background information. In 2019, Sri Lanka experienced a devastating terrorist attack that severely impacted its tourism industry. Shortly after, the COVID-19 pandemic struck, compounding the challenges faced by the country. These two events significantly disrupted not only tourism but also the livelihoods of the population, leading to a widespread crisis marked by unemployment and poverty.
In the summer of 2022, just as the situation appeared to be improving and tourists were returning to Sri Lanka, a coup took place. This violent overthrow of the government, involving the use of weapons, further destabilized the nation. However, the challenges didn’t end there. In the spring of 2021, the government implemented a ban on non-organic fertilizers, which had disastrous consequences for agricultural production. Tea and rice yields plummeted, forcing the country to import rice—a staple it had previously exported.
This sequence of events highlights how a combination of external shocks and governmental policies has deeply affected Sri Lanka.
Terrorist attacks in Sri Lanka in 2019
In April 2019, Sri Lanka faced a series of devastating terrorist attacks during Easter celebrations. Coordinated assaults targeted churches and hotels in three cities—Colombo, Negombo, and Batticaloa. These horrific events claimed the lives of over 250 people and left more than 500 injured.
1. Accommodation in Sri Lanka
When I started searching for accommodation a week before our arrival, just a couple of weeks ahead of the New Year holidays, I was convinced that all the good options had already been taken. I assumed the remaining choices would either be overpriced or of poor quality. However, the reality turned out to be not as bad as I had feared. Although the selection of available accommodations was indeed limited, we managed to find a few decent options, despite some drawbacks. That said, the overall standard of maintenance, cleanliness, and housekeeping left much to be desired. In many instances, the accommodations looked far better in photos than they did in real life. Here are a few examples:
- Despite it being the New Year season with inflated prices, our room remained uncleaned for four days, even though we returned from the beach with sand trailing into the space. The accommodation options in the area were disappointing—most were rundown, overpriced, and of poor quality. While we managed to find a few acceptable choices, even those had significant drawbacks.
- On the second night, the air conditioner stopped working. Initially, the property owners blamed the issue on our “faulty” phone chargers, claiming they caused electrical overloads. Later, they suggested it might have been due to the fumigator, which they replaced, or perhaps interference from the neighbors. In the end, they admitted they had no idea what the problem was and couldn’t fix it. Opening the balcony for fresh air wasn’t an option either, as the mosquitoes were unbearable.
- Room cleaning was only provided upon request. However, even after multiple requests, the room remained untouched. The balcony was poorly equipped—there was no light, and when we asked the owner to fix it, his attempt made no difference. There were also no chairs or clothes-drying racks, which seemed odd for a beachside hotel.
- Breakfast was delivered to our room in Colombo, but there was no proper table to eat on. We had to repurpose the writing desk and sit on the bed to eat out of containers.
- The room, though attractive in the photos, was a far cry from reality. It was rundown and dirty, with a horribly stained toilet featuring stirrup-like attachments for seating. Overall, the experience was far below expectations.
2. Road traffic in Sri Lanka
First, you need to get your driver’s license approved. It’s not particularly difficult, but you’ll need to do it at the Department of Transport in Colombo. The process isn’t too bad, except for the overwhelming paperwork. You’ll need to visit 11 different windows with the same set of documents—getting a stamp at one, a signature at another, a receipt at a third, and so on. Altogether, it takes about half a day and a small fee.
Driving in Sri Lanka might seem chaotic at first. While you may eventually grasp the rhythm of it, adapting fully can be challenging. Staying highly focused on the road is essential. I wouldn’t recommend renting a car to inexperienced drivers. As for motorbikes, we stopped using them a long time ago, but of course, the choice is yours. For us, safety always comes first.
The traffic is reminiscent of India’s: chaotic, disorganized, and a mix of bikes, tuk-tuks, cars, and wild buses. The buses, in particular, deserve special mention. These passenger vehicles hurtle down narrow streets at alarming speeds, overtaking each other—and sometimes even oncoming traffic—while honking incessantly and terrifying everyone on the road. Words can hardly capture how harrowing the experience is in reality.
Buses overtake each other even when a truck is barreling down from the opposite direction, forcing bikers and tuk-tuks to scramble for safety behind the vehicles—this kind of scenario is standard here. What I quickly learned is that you not only need to avoid hitting or injuring anyone but also must constantly dodge those attempting to overtake you.
For example, if someone overtakes you while you’re riding, you can’t simply maintain your course. You have to squeeze as far to the left as possible (traffic here follows a left-hand drive system). The rental cars available are narrow, small, and feel flimsy—mostly inexpensive, plastic-like Japanese models.
3. On the topic of roads: dogs and road conditions.
There’s a highway where the roads are in good condition, but as soon as you drive into the island’s interior, things take a turn for the worse. Still, that’s manageable. The real challenge? The dogs. They sprawl out right in the middle of the road, elegantly folding their paws one over the other and stretching out directly under your car’s path.
It’s not so bad when you’re driving at a leisurely 20 km/h, but at 60-80 km/h, it becomes unbearable—especially since swerving left or right is often not an option. Why? That’s right: tuk-tuks, motorbikes, cars, and everything else crowd the roads.
The dogs look so miserable that it tugs at your heartstrings, making the situation even more distressing. But the problem is, there are so many of them. Every meter or so, you’ll encounter yet another dog, or sometimes several, lying in the road.
4. Lack of sidewalks.
There is hardly any proper promenade to speak of. Let’s put it this way: it’s rare and depends on the bay. Walking along the road without sidewalks? Not exactly enjoyable. Why, you ask? Exactly—tuk-tuks, bikes, cars, and all the rest.
5. The promenade area is closed off by hotels and guesthouses
This is what it looks like: the sea, the beach, cafes, and restaurants, with a dense cluster of hotels and guesthouses right behind them. Beyond that, there’s a road, followed by more houses and hotels. In other words, if you’re staying in the second section across the road, you’ll need to pass through someone else’s hotel property to see what’s happening on the beach or to check out the cafes. It’s quite inconvenient.
6. Limited selection of products in stores
It’s hard to imagine doing all your shopping in a single store and finding everything you need. While there are fish and vegetable markets, they don’t offer a complete solution. We haven’t encountered anything similar to 7-Eleven or Circle K here. Basic necessities are the most affordable items available, and coconuts are about the only thing you can purchase at a convenience store.
7. Alcohol
Obtaining alcohol in Sri Lanka is neither very easy nor overly difficult. While wine stores can be found near most major towns, they may not always stock wine. Instead, these stores primarily offer liquor and beer. Wine is not universally available in liquor stores, and many cafes do not serve alcoholic beverages. Therefore, the idea of enjoying a beer or a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc with lunch might not always be feasible.
The lines at wine stores are usually packed with locals rushing to make a quick purchase. The rationale behind such restrictions remains unclear, particularly since many people habitually chew substances that seemingly have a numbing effect. Even more unsettling is the fact that, along with the leaf and some type of root, they use lime to activate the receptors in the chewing mixture. This hardly sounds appealing, especially when paired with the vivid red staining of teeth and tongues, giving people a zombie-like appearance.
The most intriguing aspect is that alcohol isn’t sold during the full moon. We frantically searched for a lunar calendar to prepare for this curious restriction, only to discover that we were in the waxing phase, allowing us to breathe a sigh of relief. However, even during this period, alcohol sales in restaurants were not prohibited.
Alcohol prices are high, but not excessively so. The wine selection is decent, featuring a wide range of imports from Europe. I had hoped to find some New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but unfortunately, their offerings were limited to wines from Europe, the US, and Australia. Wine prices range between €10 and €20.
8. Blatant poverty that makes you uncomfortable.
Yes, we all know that the standard of living in Asia can be very low, and class discrimination can be quite pronounced. However, recent events in Sri Lanka, combined with historical global challenges, have plunged the country into a severe crisis. For the first time in a hundred years, I’ve seen people resorting to buying groceries on credit, even cigarettes sold individually. Street vendors are notably aggressive in their attempts to sell their goods.
Naturally, all of this contributes to the overall impression of the products and services available. On one hand, I deeply sympathize with Sri Lankans, particularly those who cultivate rice and are caught in the crossfire of geopolitics. On the other hand, many seem unwilling or unable to take action or initiate meaningful change. I’ve observed numerous ways they could enhance demand for their businesses without incurring costs, yet these ideas don’t seem to occur to them—possibly due to a lack of education or a mindset that doesn’t lean in that direction.